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  1. #1

    how do you guys negotiate with car salesman to buy new car?

    how do you guys negotiate with car salesman to buy new car?

    I am thinking about getting Mitsubishi Outlander V6 XLS. My old accord is very very old. Its engine is noisy.

    I need room in a SUV to carry my camping gear, mountain bike. I don't want to get tricked by car dealer.

  2. #2
    1. Join there's a discount if you're a CAA member

    2. CCC claims it provides true dealer's cost. Notably, the report also shows factory incentives, including unadvertised incentives to dealers

    3. Add 3% to the CCC price and subtract any advertized or unadvertised incentives. The result is your price. Send emails to several local dealers asking if they'll sell you a car at that price. CCC will probably automatically forward your email address to a dealer who will contact you. The guy CCC referred me to was the most straightforward of the three I dealt with because he knew what I already knew. Since I didn't need a test drive, all discussion was done by email. That was great because there's no showroom or time pressure.

    4. Until recently, Ontario dealers routinely added an "administration fee" of $300 or so but then routinely took it off if the client objected. Most people didn't object -- might not have even noticed it. I think the Ontario govt has now banned those fees, but I'm not sure.

    5. The dealer will probably automatically add on a "security package" for $300 or so. Might include lug nut locks plus etching on certain parts with a warning decal on the windows. Tell him you don't want it. If you want lug nut locks, Canadian Tire sells them for $20 or so. Odds are the parts are already etched and the decals are already on the windows. All you give up is the database registry.

    6. When you go in to sign the papers, the salesman will try to sell you rustproofing. Say no. Krown rustproofing is better and costs much less upfront, though probably not over time.

    7. Phil Edmonston, Consumer Reports and others say extended warranties are usually not worth buying. Salesmen use high pressure because they're high commission. The guy I dealt with told me he was obligated to offer rustproofing and extended warranty. I told him I was obligated to say no. He laughed and moved on.

    8. Do you have a credit card that pays travel points or a cash dividend. The dealer will probably let you put the deposit on the card -- up to $2,000 or $2,500 -- so you get points or dividend.

    9. The govt will pay you $300 if you scrap your old car through the Retire Your Ride program. Only certain scrap yards participate. You'll need to show proof that your car has been insured for the past six months. When we dumped DW's car during the summer, this program seemed to be the only way to get money for an old car. Outside the program, scrap yards weren't offering anything because the recession had clobbered demand for steel. YMMV

    10. If you're not to fussy, have a first and second choice for colour. A friend of ours is a car salesman and told us the system through which dealers swap cars is horrendously complex. So you'll get a smoother, possibly cheaper , deal if the color you want is already in stock or on the way.

  3. #3
    do I get better profit if I sell my old car to used car dealer or trade in ?

  4. #4
    Depends. I had a trade-in worth nothing. It was running but I couldn't get a cash offer from any used car dealer. Nada.

    Went to several dealers for a new Nissan Altima. All offered $500 for that trade-in.

    One, and only one, offered $1000.

    Guess who got the sale.

  5. #5
    Search FWF for the several previous threads that discuss car buying strategies, including buy vs. lease, trade-ins, buying in the US, etc.

  6. #6
    I would suggest before you buy the Mitsubishi, you look at Honda and Toyota.

    You may save a few bucks on the Mitsibushi, but resale on CRV and RAV4 is much better, plus better local servvice.

    I have always liked Mitsibushi but for some reason, they never really took off?

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